| ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE |
DAMAGE/SYMPTOMS |
PREVENTION |
CONTROL
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| Construction Damage |
caused by physical injury to trunk and crown, including split and broken branches; soil compaction of root zone; or smothering of roots with added soil |
clearly mark and flag all trees to be preserved during construction |
properly prune damaged branches; smooth edges of wounds |
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damage may not become obvious for 1 to 2 years |
fence off trees as far out as branches reach |
soak trees once weekly by using a soaker hose or regular hose on a slow trickle for one hour |
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trees wilt and grow poorly |
do not pile soil against trunks or raise soil level over roots |
aerate soil and mulch around tree |
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tips of branches may die back |
no heavy equipment or supplies travelling over or stored on roots |
contact a certifed arborist |
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evergreens may produce a large crop of cones before dying |
contact a certified arborist for tree protection plan |
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| Lawnmower Damage |
horizontal cuts in bark of tree |
use hand tools to clip close to trunk |
prevention is the best treatment |
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repeated injuries may cause branches to die back and might kill tree |
place mulch or alternative, low-maintenance ground covers around trunk for a no mow zone |
carefully cut away all damaged bark and trim jagged edges of cut |
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injuries allow diseases and pests to enter |
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| Lightning Damage |
often long scars running length of trunk to ground |
for tall and/or valuable trees, have a professional install a copper lightning protector |
remove damaged branches and bark |
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some cases, only yellowing of leaves and branches dying back |
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trim jagged edges of would or loose bark |
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water thoroughly |
| Nitrogen Deficiency |
occurs commonly on sandy soils |
replace mulch around tree as needed |
when symptoms arise, water with compost tea or fish emulsion and apply supplemental nitrogen fertilizer such as bloodmeal around roots |
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lower, older leaves first become pale green to yellow; later, entire plant may become lighter |
compost as necessary |
spraying leaves with fish emulsion gives trees an immediate boost |
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flowers turn yellow and drop, and fruits are stunted and woody |
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| Iron Deficiency |
youngest leaves on upper shoots are first affected, becoming light yellow to nearly white between veins |
select species tolerant of alkaline soils |
at first sign of yellowing leaves sprinkle compost onto surface of soil as far out as the edge of the tree canopy |
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plants usually stunted |
do not over lime or plant too close to concrete foundations |
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appears when soil is too alkaline or because it has been over limed |
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| Salt Damage |
salt spray blown up from passing cars can damage leaves |
protect trees along roads by erecting a barrier to deflect salt spray from cars |
soak entire root area of trees once weekly by using a soaker hose or regular hose on a slow trickle for one hour |
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salt-laden melt-water can produce toxic conditions around roots |
use sand or sawdust instead of salt on slippery sidewalks |
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symptoms include brown leaf edges, early leaf drop, shoot dieback |
plant salt-tolerant species along walkways and roads |
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| Waterlogged Soil |
roots die back and eventually rot as fungi and bacteria attack dying tissue |
select species tolerant to waterlogged soil |
improve drainage and soil conditions |
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small leaves, stunted shoots, reduced tree growth |
prior to planting, mix in compost and other organic matter to improve drainage in clay soils |
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| Lack of Water |
leaves wilt, droop and turn yellow or brown |
commonly occurs as a result of construction, causing root loss, or hard surface installation placed too close to tree - see ""Construction Damage"" |
remove hard surface at base of tree |
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leaves may also looked scorched, brown at tips and along leaf edges |
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provide regular deep watering - twice a week |
| Winter Injury |
large brown patches on leaves |
plant native species, which are accutomed to our winters |
prune back damaged tissue in spring |
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branch tips or entire shoots may dieback |
ensure soil is well watered in fall before cold weather |
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evergreens may dry out and turn brown under freezing conditions |
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| Girdling Roots |
roots grow around other roots or main stem of tree and cut off or restrict movement of water and nutrients within the tree |
proper planting is most important preventative measure |
contact qualified professional to remove visible girdling roots - this is best done 4-6 years after transplanting |
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lack of flare at base of tree, reduced leaf size, early fall colour, dieback of branches |
do not pile up mulch around tree trunk - mulch should be applied in a donut-shape 3""-4"" in depth |
maintain plant vigour to help tree deal with this stress |
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ensure adequate rooting space and prevent soil compaction around tree |
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| Juglone |
stunted growth, wilting or death of other trees and plants located near members of the walnut family |
select Juglone-tolerant species |
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walnut trees produce a chemical called Juglone that affects the growth of other plants |
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