Do . . .

Water

• watering is the most important step to ensure survival, since newly planted trees have lost up to 90% of their roots in the transplantation process
• water approximately twice per week, with hose on very low flow for 20-30 minutes, so that water does not run off the surface and the tree receives a deep watering
• use a drip hose or remove nozzle and place hose at base of tree - do not use a sprinkler - this can damage leaves that are exposed to full sun and also wastes water as much of it may directly evaporate in hot summer temperatures
• watering frequency depends on weather conditions and on the species of tree you have
• check your newly planted tree every 2 to 3 days - soil beneath mulch should feel slightly moist to the touch - if it feels dry, your tree probably needs to be watered (make sure not to over water, especially trees that thrive in dry conditions - water should never remain pooled at base of tree)
• this should be continued for the first two years after the tree has been planted, in the spring through fall
• trees can also suffer from dehydration during winter, when temperatures rise above freezing - water once a week in the winter when there is no snow on the ground

Mulch

• mulch is any organic material used to hold moisture at the base of the tree (woodchips and/or leaves are ideal)
• mulch also prevents grass and weed competition, provides nutrients as it decomposes, and delineates an area that should be kept free of lawn mowers, weed-whackers, pedestrian traffic, etc.
• apply mulch to soil surface in a donut shape around the tree, approximately 2-3 inches deep and as wide as possible - remember that tree roots reach out farther than branches
• ensure mulch is not mounded up against the tree trunk since mulch holds moisture and may promote rotting - keep approximately 6 inches from the base of the tree
• mulch should be continually replaced as it decomposes
• ensure there is a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch as winter approaches to insulate tree roots from damaging freeze-thaw cycles

Feed

• use natural sources of fertilizer only such as compost, bone meal or fish emulsion
• use "top-dressing" application method - sprinkle on soil or mulch surface as far out as the drip-line of the tree (as far as the branches reach) - nutrients will gradually penetrate soil with rainfall or watering and can then be reapplied
• natural fertilizers can be applied at any time of year

Do Not . . .

• stake your tree improperly - never use materials such as wire, rope or string to tie your tree straight - tying materials should be wide and soft such as rubber hose and should be removed as soon as possible (after one year)
• prune excessively, i.e. pollarding/topping
• use chemical fertilizers or pesticides
• apply high nitrogen fertilizer to newly planted trees, as this will encourage excessive top growth before roots have had time to securely anchor the tree in the ground
• apply high nitrogen fertilizer in fall, as this promotes vegetative growth too late in the growing season
• use wound paint
• mow or weed-whack around the base of the tree as physical damage is likely
• till around the base of the tree - don't plant vegetables or flowers that require constant maintenance under your tree - plant ground covers instead
• compact soil around the base of the tree by walking, playing or driving over the area where roots are buried
• cover the soil surface under or close to the tree with impermeable material such as concrete blocks or paving - this will prevent both air and water from penetrating the soil, both of which are essential to root development and tree survival